European Union bans toxic nail gel ingredient over health concerns

The European Union has banned a common gel nail polish ingredient effective 1 September, citing health concerns over fertility and reproductive issues linked to the chemical compound.

The prohibited substance, TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide), provides ultra-glossy shine and quick drying times under UV or LED light in gel manicures.

The EU has classified TPO as “carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction” following studies demonstrating potential health risks.

TPO linked to fertility issues and reproductive health problems

Gel nail polish, popular since the 2000s, requires curing under UV or LED light to create a durable, long-lasting finish that resists chipping for several weeks. However, research has indicated TPO may adversely affect reproductive health and cause fertility problems.

The ban applies entirely to cosmetic use, though TPO remains permitted in dental fillings as a photoinitiator.

Previously, the ingredient was restricted to professional use at a maximum 5% concentration, but the new regulation prohibits all sale, marketing and use of TPO-containing cosmetic products.

Dr Hannah Kopelman, a dermatologist at DermOnDemand, described the measure as precautionary rather than preventive, noting evidence against TPO derives primarily from animal studies rather than large-scale human research.

Beauty industry criticises insufficient time to replace stock

The EU announced its initial decision in May 2024, but industry professionals argue the September implementation date provides inadequate time to replace existing inventory with TPO-free alternatives.

Nail salons must dispose of all existing stock containing the ingredient, with “no exceptions, no time limit for selling products,” creating immediate operational challenges for businesses.

TPO remains unregulated in the United States, where more than 100 million women use nail products.

Concerned consumers can reduce exposure risks by requesting TPO-free products, spacing gel manicures appropriately, using protective base coats and ensuring adequate ventilation during application.

The chemical ban represents part of broader EU regulatory approaches that often exceed US standards, with European authorities previously prohibiting various substances, including BHA, BHT and certain food additives still permitted in American markets.

Additional concerns surround gel manicures beyond TPO exposure, including UV light cancer risks and nail damage from preparation processes. Health professionals recommend moderation and proper safety measures for regular gel polish users.

(information from The New York Post)